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The modern spirit, geometric shapes and vibrant colours of Chandigarh’s Capitol Complex are the perfect match for the most fashion forward pieces in Berluti’s Winter 2019 Collection.
Primary colours, clean-cut geometry and a richness of textures thrive in Chandigarh, the Northern India city planned by Le Corbusier in the early 1950’s. His Capitol Complex, in the heart of the city, is a UNESCO heritage site and comprises several constructions.
Symbolizing a new, independent India, the “Assembly Building” is a concrete structure mixing precise geometrical shapes and curved lines, its only ornament being its colourful doors with enamel panels, gifted to the city by Le Corbusier himself and airlifted from Paris.
The “High Court” is a linear block with a rhythmic arcade and a parasol-like roof which shades the entire structure. A high portico rests on three giant concrete pylons painted in bright primary colours, punctuating its façade. Finally, the “Tower of Shadows” is a lofty, open-sided hall. Aligned precisely on a north-south axis, it prevents the sun from ever entering it, creating a cool shade and a subdued atmosphere.
It is here that Berluti’s Winter 2019 Collection becomes an avant-garde manifesto. This season’s lavish leather outerwear features an eye-catching, sportswear-inspired bonded kangaroo leather parka with a contrasted black deer skin on the inside, but also a truly timeless double-breasted coat in supple deer leather. Reflecting on Berluti’s DNA, Kris Van Assche creates a marble print inspired by the antique, patina-dripped marble tables where craftsmen work at Manifattura Berluti, digitally printing it over a quilted lining, water-repellent puffy coat, but also over lavish mulberry silk shirts, both in multicolour and in shades of pink, blue or black.
Suits mix sleek, classic constructions with surprising colours - from vermillion to lead - and patterns, including a luxurious jacquard version of the marble motif. Streetwear touches take the shape of a double face virgin wool hoodie to be worn as outerwear, and a daring motocross trouser made from a patchwork of fabrics with leather patches.
Shoes include the new “Stellar” sneaker, a model of minimalist, pure lines paired with a true bootmaker attitude expressed through the sneaker’s matte leather and distinctive outsole. The “Alessandro” - Berluti’s emblematic lace-up oxford made from a single piece of leather, first designed in 1895 - takes on a new angular square toe with a diamond cut inspiration and a sharp metal edge. And a “Cloudy Patina”, created through a meticulous process of applying clouds of colour to the leather, then waxing and polishing them.
Patinated Venezia leather is also featured in the new “Complice” bag, a mid-sized cross-body bag that can also be worn by hand. A nylon weekender and a backpack are printed with the marble motif and structured through a leather armor. Sunglasses are created in collaboration with Thélios and feature a mirror treatment with a patina-ombré effect. Models include the “Shine” - a square aviator shape with an engraved logo -, “Halo” - an acetate-framed round shape - and “Bright” - a classic metal pilot shape.
The “Alessandro” - Berluti’s emblematic lace-up oxford made from a single piece of leather, first designed in 1895 - takes on a new angular square toe with a diamond cut inspiration and a sharp metal edge. And a “Cloudy Patina”, created through a meticulous process of applying clouds of colour to the leather, then waxing and polishing them.