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Bespoke

Grande Mesure fully bespoke tailoring

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It takes an expert eye to recognize a Grande Mesure suit at first glance. But for the man who wears it, it’s much easier: this suit was made for him and him alone, to precisely his own ideas and requirements. It molds to his body from shoulder to ankle, following its movements without meeting the slightest resistance. As opposed to ready-to-wear suits, or “semi-mesure” suits which are adapted from existing models, Grande Mesure suits begin their life on a blank page. And that is exactly what clients want when they come to the Berluti workshops.

For the House of Berluti, offering Grande Mesure was obvious. If the House offered unique expertise in its bespoke footwear and ready-to-wear collections, then it was a point of pride to offer a Grande Mesure service of the highest caliber. Naturally its choice went to the House of Arnys with its 40 years of tailoring excellence. With the result that henceforth all Berluti Grande Mesure suits will be made by the master tailors of the House of Arnys in the grand tailoring tradition.

Thus Berluti becomes the first House to offer a bespoke service to dress the man from head to toe.

TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS

For the client wishing to have a bespoke suit made, it all begins with the first appointment. Comfortably seated in a private salon, he discusses his project with the master tailor who will be following the making of his suit every step of the way. What style of suit is he looking for? For what kind of occasion? For which season? Where does he live, and what is his lifestyle like? These questions having been settled, the tailor now measures his client. Some ten or so measurements will be noted: from shoulder width to leg length and everything in between. Then the client will specify the cut of suit he has in mind.

“All options are open. One, two or three buttons, patch or jetted pockets, peaked or notched lapels, half belt… everything is feasible.”

All options are open. One, two or three buttons, patch or jetted pockets, peaked or notched lapels, half belt … everything is feasible. Of course the tailor is there to give advice or specify a rule of dress that will allow his client to avoid any style peccadillos. For the undecided, a Grande Mesure collection designed by Alessandro Sartori will provide plenty of inspiration: a suit, jeans, a safari jacket, the iconic Forestière jacket and a host of other styles to satisfy every whim.

Next, the client chooses the cloth he would like for his suit. The choice is vast: more than 3,000 fabrics woven by prestigious houses in Italy, England, Ireland, France and Japan. Once again, the client’s every wish can always be granted.

After an hour with his client the tailor has all the information he needs to start work.

THE CUT

Following this first appointment, the tailor sets about making the suit. While the trousers are entirely sewn by a specialist trouser-maker, the jacket is hand-tailored by the master tailor, who constantly has in mind the figuration of his client and can adjust the cut to account for uneven shoulder height, for example, or a rounded back. This highly skilled craftsman first draws the model on paper before cutting it out and transferring his client’s measurements onto a canvas.

A SUIT IS BORN

He then cuts the suit cloth and bastes it onto the canvas, leaving plenty of leeway for eventual adjustments.

“This highly skilled craftsman first draws the model on paper before cutting it out and transferring his client’s measurements onto a canvas.”

THE FITTINGS

Three weeks after his initial appointment with the master tailor, the client has his first fitting, the jacket being presented without collar or sleeves. This fitting allows the tailor to adjust the jacket for a closer or looser fit, for example.

During this fitting, the client can also try on the finished trousers. The second fitting takes place a month later. By this time, the tailor has assembled the entire jacket, stitched the collar and sleeves and finished the details (outer and inner pockets, lining, etc.). Standing in front of the mirror, the client can take the full measure of his bespoke suit, and if need be, offer comments, ask for final adjustments to the length or width of a sleeve, or to closeness of fit. 

 

THE FINISHING TOUCHES

These last adjustments are promptly taken in hand and two months after his first appointment the client can leave with the ideal suit, entirely sewn to his requirements down to the last detail. In all, the master tailor will have spent 70 hours in his workshop to achieve this level of satisfaction.

“A Grande Mesure suit is entirely conceived by and for the client.”

A ONE-OF-A-KIND SUIT

A Grande Mesure suit is entirely conceived by and for the client. It is cut exclusively to his measurements so that it will perfectly mold to his body. And he can choose every last detail, from the width of the lapels to the style of the buttons and the color of the lining, while taking full advantage of the seasoned experience and advice of the master tailor.

  • More than 3,000 fabrics to choose from
  • A total of 4 appointments with the customer
  • 70 hours of custom tailoring
  • 20 craftspersons in our workshops

Our Grande Mesure service is available at the Rue de Sèvres, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Rue Marbeuf locations in Paris. It is also offered in London at Conduit Street, New York Madison Avenue and in the Hong Kong, Dubai and Abu Dhabi stores.

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