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Tailor
Advises client on cloth and model, personally handles measurements and fittings and oversees the making-up of the suit.
Bespoke
The tailor's
little lexicon

A garment is worn, of course, but it also presents and explains itself. Another way of saying that the words have their importance and each term has its own specific meaning. For 40 years, from Arnys to Berluti, the steps in tailoring a garment have been the same and the same expertise is recounted through this little lexicon.

Bespoke
From the term to "be spoken for", referring to a cut of cloth reserved by the client for his planned suit.
Pattern
A model in different shapes to give the desired line.
Bundle
All the components of a jacket or trousers bundled together for making-up.
Cutter
Creates a pattern, cuts the cloth and constructs the suit.
Trouser maker
Specialist tailor who makes trousers.
Basting
Tacking with long stitches to hold the garment pieces together before final sewing.
Stitching
The operation of hand- or machine-stitching the parts of a jacket.
Canvassing
Hand-stitching of canvas to the forepart of the jacket to give shape and body to the front of the garment.
Notch
The opening between the lapel and the collar, the signature feature of each house.
French seam
A seam attaching the collar to the lapel.
Facing
The piece used to form the back of the neck and the lining of the front edges, and which defines the edge.
Buckram
A coarse, heavily sized cloth used as a stiffener to give rigidity to the bottom of the sleeve.
Buttonhole finisher
The highly-skilled worker who makes hand-sewn buttonholes.
Front buttoning
A value added to the line defined by the tailor as the center of the body.
Milanese buttonhole
A lapel buttonhole which is whipstitched, differentiating it from the other buttonholes.
Drape
The balance between body and construction lines so that a garment hangs naturally and harmoniously.

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