ranks of the
Military style has always influenced menswear designs: the trench coat, the parka, the frock coat, the bomber. Learn all about these exceptional season essentials.
When we think of the parka, the famous M-65 immediately springs to mind. This jacket, part of the American G.I. uniform during the Vietnam War, later became a protest symbol during the pacifist marches. Then it was worn by the key activists of the rock ‘n’ roll world of the Sixties and Seventies, including Bob Dylan, and then by the Mods, sources of inspiration for this collection. This parka is bristling with military details, aesthetically reborn in the hands of Haider Ackermann: snap-close patch pockets, button plackets, pocket contours and drawstring openings trimmed in leather, buffalo-horn buttons bearing the Berluti logo. The denim-like grey-blue, very high collar and oversized hood make it a key article in any man’s wardrobe.
THE NEO-FROCK COAT
This more formal but equally modern coat comes in two designs and features military hallmarks, as well: epaulettes, straight and slanted patch pockets, slight double-breasted closure. The angora and virgin wool felt version, with a collar in electric-blue astrakhan fur, is utterly cutting-edge. The simpler version, without the fur collar, is suitable for more formal occasions.
THE TRENCH COAT
The trench coat, literally a coat for the trenches that was used by the armies during World Wars I and II, is the military garment par excellence. This trim-fitting, black cashmere version exudes utterly timeless elegance, boasting leather detailing at the wrists, under the collar, and even along the garment’s lower hem.
THE SAILING BAG
It’s the new backpack! In buffalo hide or raw cotton canvas, it is designed to be worn at an angle and bears the initials BRLT in lettering of military inspiration, making it a must for the nomadic man who is ever on the go.
The bomber jacket is a conspicuous theme in the Fall/Winter 2017 collection. It is a nod to the MA-1 flight jacket, worn by the United States Air Force and Navy pilots, popularised by images of American fighter and helicopter pilots during the Vietnam War. Haider Ackermann has reinvented it in satin twill, with leather details on the chest and the sleeve pocket, with discreetly logoed snaps and two subtle shades of khaki.
THE FLIGHT JACKET
Here again, a nod to the legendary flight jacket, but completely reinvented by Berluti. A version in deep-purple velvet, with a slightly padded nylon lining, a removable buttoned shearling collar, leather detailing and contrasting cotton sleeves, for an interesting juxtaposition of materials. The cashmere version is supremely sophisticated, with a collar in green alligator skin.
THE UNLINED BOMBER
A revisited camouflage print combined with the Scritto motif, a juxtaposition of matte and glossy looks, easy to wear with jeans or chinos.