It is under the subtlest, quietest appearances that the most vibrant details come to light. Amid black sand and silvery rocks, this season’s most striking pieces stand out as a manifesto.
Icelandic magma stones and black sand beaches are the perfect backdrop for Haider Ackermann’s Fall/ Winter 2018 Collection for Berluti. An ode to introspection and stillness in an often strident world, it focuses on pure shapes and clean pieces which nonetheless hide in them a rich array of luxurious details, fabrics and finishing touches.
The ultimate example? An eye-catching dusty pink wool blend suit jacket and a double face cashmere and wool coat which, underneath an apparent simplicity - especially when worn with wool satin trousers and a white t-shirt - conceal lizard leather-lined pockets and buffalo horn buttons. A velvety dark green calfskin suede flight jacket is meticulously embellished with a shearling collar and lining and a brown lizard under collar while another one, in sand nubuck, features a quilted lining in the sleeves. And the functional appeal of outdoors staples meets luxury through reworked parkas - in cotton satin with a castorino fur lining, in ivory nylon with a removable shearling lining, and in bi-color malachite and black nylon. Accessories follow suit: XL pouches are almost seamless and come in extra soft leather or crocodile, sneakers combine nylon and Venezia leather and lace-up combat boots bring an edge to an otherwise timeless collection.
An ode to introspection and stillness in an often strident world, it focuses on pure shapes and clean pieces which nonetheless hide in them a rich array of luxurious details, fabrics and finishing touches.