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City Lights

Kris Van Assche’s very first capsule collection for Berluti lays the foundations of a new kind of classic menswear.

  • Photography: Stef Mitchell

  • Videos: Kevin Hayden

  • Models: Bakay Diaby & Dylan Fender

City nights and neon lights are the natural habitat of the kind of man about town Berluti’s Creative Director Kris Van Assche has a flair for. His Summer 2019 Capsule Collection - his first one for Berluti - is inspired by the dark atmospheres and electronic sounds of New Wave music, all while exploring the way in which street culture, formalwear and technical details merge together to create today’s menswear.

Timeless tailoring is given a modern spin through sleek, fitted proportions and light shoulder padding. Stretch cotton poplin shirts feature contrasted piping in graphic black and white, the kind of detail that can transform a whole look. Berluti’s new logo is displayed in short-sleeved jersey tops and worn over short-sleeved shirts, taking the mix between casual and formalwear to a new level. Outerwear follows suit: a technical-inspired hooded parka made from French calfskin in a striking electric blue tone becomes the ultimate statement piece, and Berluti’s iconic “B-Way” blouson with elasticated cuffs adopts a daring shade of red and a matte, grainy texture. The Scritto motif, inspired by 18th century manuscripts and created by Olga Berluti, becomes a multicolored, New Wave-inspired manifesto when printed over silk shirts and blousons.

Under Kris Van Assche’s direction, Berluti’s classic accessories are reinterpreted through an 80’s prism: The “Alessandro” shoe gets a reversed patina treatment, in which details and contours, rather than darkened, are now highlighted with blue colour. A new statement sneaker, the “Gravity”, is made from opaque Vitello leather, nylon and rubber. A pigmented finish on a supple white Vitello backpack creates a natural, matte grainy texture, and a new weekender takes inspiration from the “Alessandro” in its assemblage of leather panels using as few seams as possible, proof that timeless savoir-faire and state-of-the-art technical achievements go hand in hand.

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